Roads that feel as if they lead exhilaratingly to
the edge of the known world might be termed ‘peninsular thrills’,
and the one leading down to Port Eynon is no exception. You are in deep
Gower here, and even when the place is bustling with visitors in high
summer, it will probably feel agreeably faraway from everywhere else.
Two villages face one another from opposite ends of Port-Eynon Bay:
quiet Horton and the more brash Port Eynon, with its cluster of seafood
restaurants and tea and chip shops. There is less sand and more bare,
exposed rock here than on other well-known Gower beaches, and local
people argue passionately that this is the recent result of over-dredging
for sand out in the Bristol Channel. That said, it is a pleasant and
accessible beach with convenient facilities, backed by dunes and sheltered
by a headland, with all kinds of marine life and sea birds.
Port Eynon was a thriving village of oyster fishermen, mariners and
quarry men in the 19th century. The 12th-century church of St Cattwg
was renovated at that time but retains its Norman doorway and has a
stoup for holy water in the porch, which is said to have been given
by a Spanish sea captain in gratitude to his rescuers.